By Megan Mueller
 

Jim Concannon, third generation Irish winemaker, was only 6 years old the first time he tried to make wine. He sneaked some grape juice and put it in a bottle to ferment in the tank house, but a week later, his father confronted him about the liquid coming through the ceiling of his bedroom. 

His parent's bedroom was directly beneath the tank house, and the fermenting bottle had popped under pressure and seeped through into the room below. "If you want to make wine," his father said, "let me take you to the winery." Seventy-one years later, Concannon has never left. 

The Concannon family winery was started by Jim's grandfather, James, in 1883. He had emigrated from the Aran Islands in the Bay of Galway to Boston in 1847. He moved to Oregon with his wife, Ellen Rowe of Co. Kilkenny, and their first of 10 children in 1874. After managing a sheep ranch in Oregon, the elder Concannon and his clan moved to San Francisco and sold books. He made a fortune selling rubber stamps from Mexico to British Columbia. Eager for something new, he decided to enter the wine business. 

James Concannon found that the Livermore Valley, with its rocky soil and unusual east-west orientation, was remarkably similar to the Rhone and Bordeaux winemaking areas in France According to grandson Jim, James, true to his Irish heritage, tried to plant potatoes, but couldn't go down into the ground more than six inches because of the rocks. 

Jim remembers his father telling him that "if you don't have anything else to do, go and pick up rocks." He and his brothers did pick up the stones and then promptly attempted to throw them over the top of winery. They never really made a dent in the number of rocks present in the vineyards, but their childhood shenanigans did result in a vast increase in the number of rocks on the roof of the winery. "The rocks are probably still up there," he muses.

James Concannon went to the University of California to learn about viticulture, then traveled to Spain and France to find the perfect root stock to begin his vineyards. His vineyards, winery and home were well established by 1884, and he was the first Irish immigrant to make wine in America. 

At the suggestion of Archbishop Joseph Alemany of San Francisco, he developed a line of sacramental wines in addition to his Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Petite Sirah. The line of sacramental wines allowed the Concannon firm to be one of only six US wineries to stay open through Prohibition. 

James' son, Joseph, took over the winery after James died in 1911. He increased the acreage and planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel grapes. When Joseph died in 1965, Jim and his brother, Joe, stepped up as the next generation of Concannons to run the family business. 

Jim went to a festival just before entering college, deciding to compete in the grape-crushing competition. "I came in third," he recalls, "You had to stomp grapes in a basket, and who ever got the most juice in five minutes won." Despite his honorable third place, the purple stain on his feet persisted long enough to get him nicknamed "Purple Toes." 

He graduated from Saint Mary's College of California in Moraga with a degree in business administration in 1953. After spending two years in the Army as an infantryman, he returned to college at University of California- Davis for seven months, where he took the chemistry short courses. He took his place in the winery, first as the winemaker assistant. 

He worked under the first woman wine maker in America, Katherine Vajada, an immigrant from Budapest, Hungary. "She was a ballerina when she was young, but she was particularly strict woman to work for," Concannon says. "If I was off the needed 6ppm in the wine, I would have to start again."

The apprenticeship paid off. In 1964, Concannon released his first varietal Petite Sirah which won numerous awards. Petite Sirah vines occupy 140 of the 200 acres of the Concannon vineyards, and has become the Concannon's best known product. 

Joe went to Notre Dame. He returned after graduation to the Concannon vineyards and developed the top Cabernet clones, clones seven and eight, also called the Concannon Clones, which are widely planted. 

In 2007, Jim received the Lifetime Achievement Award from PS I Love You, a group that celebrates Petite Sirah wine. The same year, he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the California State Fair, which holds North America's oldest and most prestigious wine competition.

Although he is now 77, Jim still runs the family business. He travels extensively as a representative of the Concannon Vineyards, but still works at the winery. "If some thing is not right," he says, "I get out there and have a discussion with the winemaker." 

Some things have changed since he started at Concannon Vineyards. They no longer produce sacramental wines, though Jim recollects having sent wine to the Vatican in the past. They are also in the middle of a $30 million renovation, which will modernize much of the equipment and expand the tasting room and reception area. 

"Only six out of around 1,200 wineries in California are historical landmarks. We want to preserve that. The old winery was outdated, we have to stay modern," Concannon states. The renovation broke ground last year on St. Patrick's day. 

This St. Patrick's day, Concannon will drink Petite Sirah with a holiday meal of corned beef and cabbage. "It's an all-purpose wine. It lives a long time in the bottle. You can enjoy it with almost any type of food." Bottles of Concannon Petite Sirah were given as gifts to former president of the United States, Ronald Reagan, as well as the current president of Ireland, Mary MacAleese.

This year will be the 126th harvest at Concannon vineyards. True to tradition, the youngest Concannon will put the first bunch of grapes in the crusher to begin the winemaking process. Shannon, now 11, has had that honor several times. She is the youngest granddaughter, and an Irish step-dancer. "I want to name a wine after her, something sweet. I'll call it Shannon Concannon," he says. 

Concannon is proud that his oldest son, John, is ready to "carry on the tradition" and work the Concannon Vineyards. "He has a good presence. He used to be in sales, he has time for people." John was born in 1961, the same year Concannon produced Petite Sirah. "It was a vintage year," he proclaimed. 

Concannon Vineyards will be around for generations to come. He recalls with a smile a day when his two grandsons, Eric and Kyle Patrick, who are cousins and both 7, were walking behind him. "Why are you walking behind me?" he asked them. "Poppy," they replied, "We want to walk in your shadow."

New Twist on Classic Fare for St. Patrick’s Day Entertaining

Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with this modern take on classic corned beef and cabbage. The recipe, which calls for either deli or homemade corned beef, offers a perfect menu for toasting with friends. Pair with Petite Sirah from the Irish/American winery, Concannon Vineyard, whose founder was born on St. Pat’s day in 1847.

Concannon Vineyard introduced America’s first varietally labeled Petite Sirah in the 1960s. This pioneering California- Irish family continues to lead in creative wine and food pairings and sustainable practices throughout its vineyard and winery operations. To learn more, visit www.concannonvineyard.com.

Concannon Mini-Reuben with Caraway Slaw, Roasted Garlic Aioli and Irish Cheddar

(Recommended Wine Pairing: 2005 Concannon Petite Sirah)

Prep time 30 minutes

Serving One 
1 small clove of garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon Concannon Petite Sirah
1/4 teaspoon of olive oil
1 teaspoon water
Dill sprig
4 teaspoons Concannon Petite Sirah
2 tablespoons chicken stock (canned or boxed)
1/8 teaspoon caraway seeds
Pinch salt
1 cup store-bought shredded cabbage (e.g., Fresh Express or Dole cole slaw)
1/4 teaspoon Concannon Petite Sirah
1 tablespoon Roasted Garlic Aioli (recipe below)
1/4 of a whole bay leaf
2 slices cocktail rye bread 
4 thin slices of corned beef (deli or homemade)
1/4 teaspoon of sugar

Concannon Roasted Garlic Aioli

Pre-heat oven to 425F°. Place garlic clove in ovenproof container; add 1 tablespoon Concannon Petite Sirah, the olive oil, water. Cover with foil, roast for 20-25 minutes, or until it can be easily pierced. Remove and cool. Mash garlic with any remaining cooking liquid; stir garlic, dill, ? tsp wine into aioli. Set aside; reduce oven temperature to 375°F.

Concannon Caraway Slaw
In a saucepan, place bay leaf, sugar, 4 teaspoons Concannon Petite Sirah, chicken stock, caraway seeds, salt and cabbage. Toss to coat cabbage. Cover and bring to quick boil, then reduce heat to low, keeping covered until cabbage wilts, about 30 seconds. Uncover, turn up heat to medium and boil away liquids, about two minutes. Discard bay leaf.

Assembly
Spread rye bread with 3/4 tablespoon aioli. Add slaw then place corned beef folded on top. Add one slice Irish cheddar. Heat sandwich open faced in oven for 5 minutes or until cheddar melts, cover with second slice of rye bread if desired.