By Theresa Gawlas Medoff
Contributing Writer

Those who cannot make it to Ireland for St. Patrick’s Day might want to consider a visit to an Emerald Isle a bit closer to home: the Caribbean island of Montserrat, the only country outside Ireland where St. Patrick’s Day is a public holiday. 

St. Patrick’s Week of Celebration, this year March 10-18, joins together shamrocks and steel drums for a unique celebration of the island’s Irish and African heritage. On Montserrat, St. Patrick’s Day commemorates not only the saint, but also the bravery of the islanders’ slave ancestors, who rose up on St. Patrick’s Day 1768 in a rebellion that ultimately failed.

Nicknamed the Emerald Isle of the Caribbean, Montserrat was settled in 1632 by Irish and English Catholics brought over from the Protestant island of St. Kitts. In contrast to the persecution they endured elsewhere, Irish settlers on Montserrat were allowed to practice their religion, and the island soon became a refuge. By 1678, more than half the population was Irish. 

Today that heritage lives on not only in the Irish surnames and place names but also in the culture. The national dish, goat water, is based on a traditional Irish stew recipe, and a popular folk dance, the Bam-chick-a-lay, has its roots in Irish step dance. Green is the national color and the shamrock a national symbol. The flag includes the Union Jack as well as the Montserratian coat of arms, which features Erin and the golden harp, both symbols of Ireland. 

Although Montserrat boasts the same tropical weather and natural beauty of other Caribbean islands, it has not been overrun by tourists. That’s partly because Montserrat is so small—just 39.5 square miles—but also because, from 1997 to 2005, the island had no airport. 

Those few Americans who are familiar with Montserrat recall that in 1995 the Soufriere Hills Volcano rumbled to life and coated the capital of Plymouth in a thick ash cloud. The bustling capital was abandoned a year later. By the end of 1997 major eruptions had flattened villages, destroyed agricultural lands, buried Plymouth in ash and rubble—and destroyed the airport. 

Some 8000 Montserratians, two-thirds of the population, evacuated. Nearly 10 years later, much of the island remains a ghost town, uninhabitable because of continued threat from the volcano, but the other side of the island is thriving. 

In May 2005, Montserrat opened a new airport to replace the one that was destroyed by the volcano. Now it’s only a short hop by small plane from neighboring Antigua. 

Ironically, the volcano that destroyed much of the island is now its major tourist attraction. Guided tours of the Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO) are offered on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons. The volcano had entered a more active state from January through April 2007. By October seismologists and volcanologists reported that the volcano appears to have entered a "paused state" that they expect to last at least 18 months. 

Several of the vantage points formerly used for viewing the volcano and ash-covered southern part of the island remain closed. Until they re-open, visitors can take a rough ride by four-wheel drive to Garibaldi Hill to see the Pompeii-like ruins of Plymouth. The observatory at Jack Boy Hill on the northeastern side of the island is another popular volcano-viewing spot. It has picnic facilities and a telescope. 

But the best way to get a look at volcano-scarred Plymouth and the volcano is from the water. The Green Monkey Dive Shop offers a two and one-half boat tour around the island ($50 per person).

In addition to volcano-viewing, tourists come to Montserrat to relax and enjoy the island’s natural attractions: hiking, bird watching, fishing, snorkeling and scuba diving.

The Centre Hills region has a number of walking trails and more strenuous hiking trails. One of the more popular is the Oriole Walkway, named for the island’s national bird, the Montserrat Oriole. The oriole is rarely seen, but the rainforest is home to numerous other birds as well as tree frogs, lizards, iguanas and geckos. In August and September, Hawksbill, Loggerhead and Green Turtles come ashore on several of the island’s beaches to bury their eggs. 

The small beaches—most of them deep gray volcanic sand—are small and uncrowded. The one white-sand beach, Rendezvous Beach, is delightfully secluded—accessible only by boat or by a hike up and over a mountain. 

American and Canadian expatriates in Montserrat refer to the island as "the Caribbean the way it used to be" because it remains nearly untouched by commercialism. The island has two small hotels, but at press time one was closed temporarily due to volcanic activity. Most visitors to the island stay in guesthouses or rent villas. There are no casinos, no shopping complexes, and the restaurants are small and owner-run. Locals and expats boast that they never need to lock their doors, and tourists feel comfortable and welcome anywhere on the island. In fact, after just a few days on the island, visitors begin to see the same smiling faces again and again, and pretty soon they start to feel at home. 

And perhaps the Irish temperament still lives on Montserrat. One recent visitor from Ireland said that the island’s pace and the laid-back feeling made him feel right at home.
 

Montserrat, West Indies

Tourism Information: Montserrat Tourist Board, www.visitmontserrat.com (664) 491-2230

How to get there

Major airlines fly to St. Maarten and Antigua. WinAir (www.fly-winair.com) flies to Montserrat from both islands. 

Montserrat remains a British overseas territory and English is spoken. The official currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar, but U.S. dollars are widely accepted. 

Where to stay

Gingerbread Hill, www.volcano-island.com (664) 491-5812
Accommodations at this small guesthouse range from the single-room "backpacker’s special" to "the villa," with two bedrooms, two baths, living room, full kitchen facilities and wrap-around veranda. Set on three lush acres: pick citrus, mangoes and bananas from the trees; enjoy fresh eggs from the hens, honey from the bees, and veggies from the hydroponic salad garden. Rates: $45-$125.

Tropical Mansion Suites, www.tropicalmansion.com (664) 491-8767 Full-service, 18-room boutique hotel with pool, gardens, restaurant and bar. Close to the airport, beaches and Little Bay Port. Rates: $89-$150.

Vue Pointe Hotel, www.vuepointe.com (664) 491-5210 Owned by Boston-native Carol Hillberg Osborne, the Vue Pointe overlooks Old Road Bay, on the edge of the Exclusion Zone. The hotel was closed temporarily because of volcanic activity and at press time it had not yet reopened. Check the website for updates.

Villa Rentals: Tradewinds Real Estate, www.tradewindsrealty.com (664) 491-2004
 

Where to Eat

J.J.’s Cuisine, (664) 491-9024
In a pretty little building painted in candy colors, owner Zephrina Jnofina prepares delicious seafood and meat dishes along with her wonderful desserts. Menu varies according to what’s fresh. Lunch $4 to $10, dinner $10 to $25.

Tina’s Restaurant (664) 491-2008
Quiet surroundings and cool breezes create a relaxing ambience for dining inside or out on the veranda. Food choices range from pizza to steak; specialties include pumpkin soup, lobster burgers and, of course, the catch of the day. Lunch $10, dinner $10 to $25.

Jumping Jacks Beach Bar & Restaurant (664) 491-5645
(Temporarily relocated to Hibiscus Bay, Olveston) Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch. Specialties are tuna sandwiches and grilled fish caught fresh that morning by owner Danny Sweeney. Also open Fridays for dinner, when the regular lunch menu is supplemented by a curry dish or barbeque chicken. $4-10.
 

What to do

Montserrat Volcano Observatory, www.mvo.ms (664) 491-5647
Learn about volcano activity and monitoring methods on a guided tour of the observatory. Tuesdays and Thursdays at 2 p.m. Fee: children $2, adults $4.

Let’s Go Limin’ Tours, (664) 491-5371
Go on a van tour of some Montserrat nightspots. The tour runs from approximately 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. By reservation only. Cost: $14 plus drinks.

The Green Monkey Inn and Dive Shop, www.divemontserrat.com (664) 491-2960
In addition to snorkeling and diving trips, Troy Deppermann offers sunset cruises, deep-sea fishing excursions, hiking and volcano-viewing tours.

The Montserrat National Trust (664) 491-3086 
Arrange for a guided hike with a forest ranger. A two-hour tour costs $25 for one person, $20 per person when two or three participate, $15 per person for more than three.