During a Milwaukee Pub Crawl, Multiply the Craic

By Meaghan Ziemba

First Stop: Packy’s Pub

I never like doing phone interviews because I feel that such a remote link misses a huge part of what makes the individual So it was no different, calling Packy Campbell of Packy’s Pub on Milwaukee’s 4068 S. Howell Ave. I was extremely nervous. I talked to him once previously to set up the time and day for the interview. But because of his bustling schedule prior to the High Holy Days around St. Patrick’s, he only could spare a brief moment for a phone chat. So I forged ahead.

His Irish brogue was the only indication of his ethnicity when he first answered my call. A thousand images went through my mind as I tried to give his voice a face. Did he have red hair with a million freckles, representing the stereotypical Irishman? Or was he the Dark Irish with black hair and possibly green eyes? One thing was for certain, Packy Campbell possessed a typical, wry Gaelic sense of humor. He was not shy in demonstrating his skills in the genre it to me.

"I opened the bar for the beer, of course," Campbell said with all seriousness. He seemed rather shocked when I responded, "So you opened the bar just for fun?"

"Ah, Meaghan, you got to get used to the Irish sense of humor," he chuckled. "I was just kidding with ya. I opened it for business reasons, of course. I was in business and marketing before, and I used to work with a company called Steny’s," he explained , referring the noted Walker’s Point tavern/hangout where he worked before. I could tell from that point that the interview was going to be lots of fun!

Campbell was born in Dublin, Oct. 4, 1964. Struggling to find a good job, he decided to move to the United States in the ‘80s. He met his wife, Kelly, 11 years ago and they had three children: twins, Kiera and Declan who are now 3 1/2 years old, and Callum, 5 1/2. In April, 2000, Campbell decided go on his own, bravely opening up his own place. 

Packy’s is opened seven days a week (Monday-Friday, 3 p.m. to close; Saturday 11 a.m.-close; Sunday 10 a.m.-close). Call 414-483-4546 for more information. 

On Sundays, Packy’s offers customers an Irish breakfast of Irish curry and sausages from 10 a.m. to noon. "I decided to end the breakfast at noon, because kids come for the breakfast. During football, it gets busy and we all become rather animated – and I’m saying animated to be nice – and it is just better if the kids aren’t here for that," he pointed out. 
Football is not all that Campbell has to offer for entertainment. His place has darts, pool and a 65-inch television for customers to enjoy a game of golf . Campbell also sponsors the rugged Dublin Blues hurling team and the Black and Blue rugby team, shows matches on the televisions when possible. 

On Mondays and Saturdays, customers can sink their teeth into wings or enjoy other foods, such as sausages and chips and chicken tenders. Mozzarella wraps are the most popular snacks among his well-off clientele. If they become thirsty, a variety of beverages is available, with Guinness, Miller and Smithwicks being the most popular choices. "I also offer Irish cider and, of course, it has alcohol in it," he explained with a laugh after I asked if the Emerald Isle version was similar to Stateside apple cider. 

For St. Patrick’s Day, Campbell secured Irish entertainment and offered his Irish breakfast from 7 to 10 a.m. Reubens and corn beef sandwiches were on the menu. "I made a trip to Chicago to get the food, and that is all I am going to say," he said, refusing to surrender the name of his secret supplier. "If you’re Irish, you know," he added, with was probably a smile easily felt through the phone.

Campbell explained the atmosphere of his pub as relaxed, friendly, cozy and intimate. The average age group is 35 to 36, and the bar is small enough where it is really easy to get into. Packy’s is a meeting place where people come to socialize and relax. "They come for the craic," he said. Knowing I was confused with the term, he clarified its meaning, saying, "Craic is a bit of fun; it’s an attitude that exists in any Irish pub you enter." He furthered explained how people in Ireland go to the pubs to talk about their day and their life; to unwind from their day of work.

"You go anywhere in the world, all you have to do is find the nearest Irish bar and you’re happy," he stated proudly. "Within a half hour, you’re having a conversation with someone you just met."

Before our goodbyes, Campbell assured that I could call anytime if I needed anything else. He invited me to come down and see the pub when I could, and guaranteed that I would understand the meaning of "craic" after visiting. Although I cannot imagine his face, it is clear that Campbell is the proverbial "good man" and he truly exhibited the Irish hospitality, easily evident within his Irish brogue. 
 

Next Stop: Trinity, Three Irish Pubs

If you are looking for an interesting place to socialize with friends and enjoy the perfect pint of Guinness, I highly recommend visiting the Trinity Pub, 125 E. Juneau Ave., Milwaukee. The expansive building is not just one snug, but three distinct Irish caravansaries that meld in a great, fun atmosphere.

I entered through the Foy entrance to the Trinity and was welcomed with traditional Irish décor. The bar and walls were of dark wood, accented with stained glass windows. Booths along the windows and walls were secluded into their own sections, accommodating small groups wanting a place to chat with pals while enjoying the cozily private atmosphere. The pub had such a distinct look, I was surprised when Matt Schmidt, one of the owners, told me there was a lot more to see. 

Schmidt and his brother-in-law, Mike Foy, came up with the Irish pub idea. Schmidt, who used to play with the Wave, Milwaukee’s professional soccer team, is no stranger to the bar industry. His father, R.C. Schmidt, owns a plethora of places in the Milwaukee area: Rudy’s, Brew City, Turner Historic Restaurant, Water Street Brewery and the Oakland Trattoria. 

"The building used to be a flower shop. We bought it and turned it into Brew City. It was operated as Brew City for two years, and then we decided to turn it into an Irish pub. Our grand opening was Feb. 8 and 9, 2008," Schmidt explained. "The names of the Pub come from Mike’s family. Foy is from him, and he has uncles with the names Gallagher and Duffy."

Before starting renovations, Schmidt, Foy and some of their friends traveled to Ireland to get ideas for food and the décor. They visited a variety of pubs, and tasted an array of food. Sean Burke, director of operations of Flux Design, helped with the look and the layout, and the executive chef added his own touch to the Irish food. They still have some menu items from the Brew City menu. "But we only kept them because they were so popular and they still seem to be a favorite," Schmidt explained.

The other two bars were different they were, yet they all tied together. The center room, Gallagher, is the biggest. The design is still traditional Irish, but the wood is a lighter hue, without as much stained glass. The area is more open and can accommodate larger groups. "We set the stage back here when we have entertainment," Schmidt said. 

Another great distinction of the Gallagher bar that makes it very unique and fun, is the fully stocked Jameson bar located on the left. Row upon row of the powerful Irish whisky cover the back wall, making it a heavenly place for lovers of the powerfully refreshing distilled beverage. 

The third in the trio was the Duffy bar, the smallest and coziest. With book shelves lining the walls, customers find themselves in a more intimate setting where they can warm themselves by the fireplace. The seating is different, with high tables and stools.

The Trinity Pub accommodates all kinds of groups and all ages. "We have found that customers have their favorite spots. They like one bar the best over the others," Schmidt explained. "When customers enter one of the bars for the first time, they get curious of what else is around the corner. So they go explore the other bars and that is what we wanted."

If patrons lose their way during an exploration, posted street signs point to each bar’s locations, a truly helpful feature on crowded nights. 

Schmidt and Foy are not currently hosting Irish sessions, but they are making plans to get more Irish entertainment during the weekends. For St. Patrick’s Day, they provided an assortment of entertainment that included Irish dancers and musicians. A raffle was also held in which all the proceeds were donated to Milwaukee’s Irish Cultural and Heritage Center (ICHC). Flat-screens are available to broadcast sports and every Saturday and Sunday patrons can come and enjoy a tasty breakfast. "Our most popular items are the Benedict and the Irish breakfast," Schmidt pointed out.

Foy and Schmidt both agreed that although their place is not culturally the same as an authentic Irish pub, customers come for the same reasons: good conversation and great craic. The two want their customers to enjoy the experience, whether through the dining experience or the social. 

After seeing the three distinct atmospheres provided by the Trinity , it is clear that Foy and Schmidt have accomplished their goals. They do not provide just one great gathering place where friends can meet and talk about their days, they provide three. Three unique bars, three different atmospheres…one great experience!
 

Next Stop: The Irish Pub

Continuing my exploration of Irish pubs in Brew Town, I stopped at the aptly named Irish Pub at 124 N. Water St., sitting down with the quiet-spoken general manager, Keegan Paulik. Outside were newly built condos, seen through the large fronting windows. Paulik started the conversation with a brief history lesson of the building informing me of the ghost known to all as The Lady of the Pub. 

The building was first owned by the Pabst Brewing Company, opening more than 127 years ago. It later became the Captain’s Table, a bar for the area’s dockworkers and sailors between voyages on Lake Michigan. During that time, according to Paulik, it was rumored that two gentlemen had a confrontation over a beautiful woman. During the fight, she and one of the men were shot. Since then, the mysterious woman supposedly roams the building, causing strange things to happen.

"I have had weird things happen to me, and we hear weird noises," Paulik hesitantly explained.

The Irish Pub opened its doors on Sept. 24, 2007. Tom Coffey and John Duggan from England got together with Ed Striht from Ireland and decided to establish their own place. Kieran O’Sullivan, originally from Co. Kerry, was also involved in the original planning, but stepped aside as one of the owners. "He is still a big part of the pub," Paulik added. "He is like a brother to me and is readily available to help out with anything we need."

The pub’s first floor contains the dining area, bar and small stage for entertainers. The bar and dining area are separated by the building’s brick wall; and chalkboards with the bar’s specials written on them fill the holes where the windows used to be. "We renovated the second floor into a game room," Paulik said. "Customers can hold private parties up there, business meetings, receptions, and so forth." 

Even the employees that work at the Irish Pub are encouraged to befriend the customers. They have to follow two rules. First, learn how to pour the proper Guinness and, second, always be respectful to customers, down to saying "please" and "thank you." This helped create a hospitable feel, one intended by the owners since The Irish Pub opened.

While the pub stressed Irish good cheer and good manners, it was not quite as traditional as encountered in the Auld Sod. The menu presents a variety of munchables, ranging from American-style snacks to a combination of Irish and other ethnicities, including Reuben quesadillas, Jameson whisky wings, Irish nachos, fish fry, Tipperary’s Leprechaun burger and pub chips. However, Guinness remains the beverage of choice. Employees can bring in their own music as well, so patrons can hear anything from Neil Diamond to Pearl Jam." Customers can also listen to a variety of music from the digital jukebox. 

For St. Patrick’s Day, the bar participated in a neighborhood pub crawl, offering transportation to customers and bringing them to different Third Ward watering holes holes such as the nearby Palm’s Bistro and the Fanatic sports bar. Free tee-shirts and a trip to Ireland were given away. 

The Irish Pub has three distinct atmospheres, depending on the time. During the day, the crowd is mellower and the beer flows at a steady pace while the clientele enjoys socializing. At night, a young crowd comes in, the lights dim and the music grows louder. The beer flows more quickly and the socializing is accompanied with dancing. "’Night club/Irish pub’ is the joke around here," Paulik laughed. 

In addition, sporting events are huge draws. Soccer, hurling and rugby matches can be viewed on Setanta, an overseas sport broadcast. The matches help bring in a diverse clientele, helping create a community within the bar. Customers from Denmark, South Africa, Australia, France, England and Eastern Europe enjoy pints with each other while cheering their favorite teams.

"The games help to solidify friendships here. Everyone who comes here is like family and the games are a huge part of that," Paulik emphasized.

"Here there is no confrontation. There are genuine people who are very open and very honest, and the relationships between employees and customers are much deeper than you see at other bars. The Irish community is one of the tightest knit communities that I know, and they are always doing things for each other, and I think we hold up to that reputation very well," Paulik explained proudly 
 

Next Stop: Brocach 

Not being a regular Milwaukee pub creeper I was not sure if I was going the right direction on North Water Street when searching for the Brocach. The road began to curve and I found myself surrounded by newly built condominiums, flanked by Guinness-black Milwaukee River and worn-out, vacant buildings. Yet my attention was quickly caught by the bright red, green and gold entryway of the newly opened pub, which stood out from its surroundings, beckoning outsiders to enter and discover its Celtic offerings. 

Andy Drobac, executive chef/owner, greeted me at the side door, and gave a brief tour through the cozy interior. The dark walls were decorated with Irish signs and sayings. Upstairs, the same décor was evident, augmented by a brick fireplace on the back wall. 

The story of the Brocach, which means "badger den" in Gaelic, starts in Madison, when another pub of the same name opened in 2004. Don Geatreau and Cliff McDonald always wanted to open an Irish bar. Both hailed from the Boston area and their wives attended school together in Madison. The Madison place did so well, the duet decided to expand their horizons and opened in Milwaukee on Tuesday, Dec. 4, 2007. 

"The place in Madison is bigger, but the interiors look pretty much the same," Drobac explained. "This building was perfect because it went along with our Madison location, and we renovated the building to incorporate the characteristics of it into the theme of the pub." Prior to the Brocach, the structure was the longtime home of the fabled Five-and-Dime tavern and restaurant, well-known for its legendary fish fries and hearty pours of malt refreshment. 

There are no dart-boards or pool tables to entertain guests. But on Sundays, customers can enjoy the music of Athas, a traditional Irish acoustic band. "We have plans to add another night or two of music, and we have an idea for movies," Drobac related "When the weather gets nice outside, we would like to open the patio and show films to the customers. We want to see how it goes."

At Brocach, customers can enjoy traditional Irish foods like shepherd’s pie, corned beef and fish and chips. Starting March 22, an Irish brunch became available, offering foods like the ploughman’s breakfast, eggs Benedict, challach French toast, baked goods and additional culinary temptations. "We offer other styles of food, but the backbone is inspired by the Irish heritage," Drobac stated. 

Several beverages are also available at the Brocach; however, Guinness, Smithwicks and Harp are among the popular choices. I was also informed of the Nitrogen that gets fed through the Guinness. It is responsible for the creaminess of the beer, which makes it so enjoyable. Geatreau, who used to be a quality control manager for Guinness, comes in and teaches new employees how to pour the perfect pint. The Guinness cannot get much better with a trained professional on board. 

For St. Patrick’s Day, an outside tent was set up, thankfully with heaters. Corned beef and cabbage was served and several bands hired. "We’ll be offering what we offer every day, but not adding too much," Drobac explained, adding that since the bar already offered an Irish fee it didn’t need to do much extra for the holiday. In Madison, a bluegrass band played along with bagpipers. 

As for the day-to-day audience, Drobac stated, "We want to be accessible to everyone. The type of environment we present is more high-end so we attract a lot of graduate students and young professionals, but everyone is welcome." For the months that the pub has been opened, the Brocach has received a warm, welcoming response from thirsty, convivial neighbors. 

Drobac indicated that his clientele, especially the older neighbors, liked the building’s renovations. "We offer the small, cozy, quaint social feel that is very familiar in pubs around Ireland. We are starting to get to know the regulars, and everyone is becoming like family," he explained. 

Drobac claimed that guests should visit during their questing for the perfect pint, great food and a great time. He pointed out that the pub offered a great meeting place for folk wishing to discuss the day’s event, a popular endeavor inside Irish pubs in throughout the world. At the Brocach, the friendliness among staff and guests makes this badger den a truly fun place to hang.