A Ghostly Leap Back in Time

By Conor Caffrey
Special to The Irish American Post

The ghosts are still here. The Ryans hear them and see their outlines or shadows on the walls; occasionally, they even feel them brush by. But the spirits are much calmer now than in former times. Accomplished musician Seán Ryan believes that in Victorian times they wouldn’t leave the ghosts alone. Now the music, which is always going on in the house, would soothe the torment of the most troubled. 

They don’t bother the family at all. Indeed, the spirits are royally entertained by the multi-talented family. Following in her parents’ musical footsteps (Anne Ryan teaches Irish dancing), daughter Ciara is a champion Irish dancer and a beautiful harpist. Both father and daughter are happy to entertain and will play a reel and dance a jig for anyone that happens to drop in either from the land of the living or from the spirit world.

Leap Castle is rich in history, a synopsis of which Ryan will recount with great wit and in true seanchaí style. Some Bronze Age artifacts were found on the site and people were living in the area back in pre-Christian times. Much later on, the castle belonged to the O’Carroll chieftains — the last great Irish clan to surrender to the British in the 17th century. The O’Carrolls were uprooted to Baltimore where some of their descendants are still living to this day. 

Around this time, the castle — strategically located in a pass through the Slieve Bloom Mountains — was given as a wedding present to the Darbys, an English gentry family with connections to the English throne. There is a story that one of the Darby clan hid some stolen silver in the walls of the castle, murdering the two servants who helped him so they would not steal his horde. Imprisoned for treason, the man went mad and forgot where his hiding place was. So if there is a brand new Mercedes out front when you visit Leap Castle it may be that the Ryans have got their hands on the hidden bounty.

Leap Castle was destroyed by fire during the Irish Civil War in 1922, with the IRA implicated in the larceny and subsequent looting of the place. In 1991, the Ryans bought a complete ruin. There was neither roof nor floor and the walls were covered with fungus, mold and ivy.

Ryan has already spent 10 years painstakingly restoring the castle. This is truly a labor of love; the craftsmanship in the sandstone floor, windows and the huge stone fireplace, which is usually filled with a roaring fire, are a joy. The castle is adorned with various bits and pieces the Ryans have picked up on their travels. The huge wooden statue in the main hall, presumably the prow of a ship, Ryan shipped home from Bali. The family has christened the statue "Brian Boru," and it does bear an uncanny resemblance to what you would imagine the great man looked like despite its Eastern origins
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The place is filled with attention to detail, taste and humor. For example, the inner doors that eerily opened by themselves brought immediate smiles to the small tour group that entered when I was there. We were later charmed by craic and ceol and there was a little drop of clear colored liquid passed around for warmth. It made the visitors completely forget the wind and rain outside.

There is no doubting a stately medieval feel when you sit at one of the long tables in the main hall. They hold gigs here and the occasional tourist banquet as the big castles do, but at Leap they are informal affairs. The Ryans like to create a family atmosphere, so expect some traditional rather than gourmet Irish fare. "You may end up getting baked beans on toast like we sometimes do," jokes Anne Ryan. 

A visit to the Ryan’s castle and home gives a real insight into Irish family life. Visitors will leave with one of those rare holiday memories to be treasured for a long time. You may even plan a return visit to your new friends in the heartland of Ireland. 

Leap Castle is just north of Roscrea near Clareen in Co. Offaly. The Ryans are happy for visitors to drop in for a chat or an impromptu seisiún. But please call, they say, or you might miss them. They may be down at the shops or out playing a gig somewhere down the road. Tel: +353-509 31115.
 
 

The story of Leap Castle by Conor Caffrey is courtesy of  http://www.explore.ie, Ireland's premiere travel writing, photography and advice resource.