JAN/FEB 2003 / VOL. 3 ISSUE 6
St. Paul's Irish Pubs Form Celtic Triangle

By John Madigan

While there are plenty of places to grab a tasty pint in St. Paul — and plenty more places to hear live music — there are few bars able to combine these elements with authentic Irish appeal. 

These days, it seems bars change ownership and character as quickly as one trend fades into the next, struggling to keep up with the times. But there is a trio of pubs, a Celtic triangle of Irish heritage, that have stood sturdy against the ebb and flow of the tides.. 

The Dubliner Pub, the Half Time Rec, and O'Gara's Bar and Grill together account for more than 80 years of servicing the public palate. The tradition of Irish music, drink and overall culture has been a major part their success. With St. Patrick's Day closing in quickly, these fine establishments are ready to kick into high gear, each in their own way. 

Dubliner Pub
2162 University Ave. W.
St. Paul, Minn. 55114
651-646-5551

Tucked among trucker motels, auto parts and industrial supply stores — on the outskirts of a village of brick warehouses — the Dubliner Pub stakes an audible claim for Irish living on the southeast corner of University Avenue and Vandalia in St. Paul. With plenty of Guinness, Harp and Bass on tap, the pub features nightly live Irish music except Monday. The close proximity of the band to the seating at the bar makes for an inclusively intimate atmosphere, unique to the neighborhood pubs spotlighting the Emerald Isle. 

Purchased in 1983 by current owner Tom Scanlon, who himself hails from Co. Kerry, the bar was formerly a popular dive for truckers passing through the neighborhood. 

"That's all it used to be when I bought the place, just a couple of guys at the bar with a beer and a shot," says Scanlon, who came to the U.S. with hopes of owning his own pub. "People in Ireland only have two dreams; to either have their own farm or to have their own bar," he says with a laugh. "And my last job was milking cows." 

The proximity of the pub to area colleges and its reputation for having quality Irish music attracts a diverse crowd of young and old. And all who come seeking their share of the craic will certainly find plenty of it in the cozy glow of this authentic public house. 

Of course, St. Patrick's Day is the busiest day of the year for the bar. This year will mark the fifth annual two-day tent party paying tribute to the patron saint of Ireland. On March 16, the festivities begin with the music of the Belfast Cowboys, followed by Drunk and Disorderly. March 17 is booked solid with bands, including Paddy Wagon, the Sweet Colleens, Todd Menton and The Druids. The full bill is a promising one for a good bit of Irish high society, but come early if you're seeking more than just a drink or two, because the word spreads quickly among the St. Paul contingency.

Half Time Rec
1013 Front Ave.
St. Paul, Minn. 55103
651-488-8245 
hometown.aol.com/halftimerec/myhomepage/index.html

Across town from the Dubliner, the Half Time Rec has been a staple for Irish music in St. Paul for almost 20 years. Big names like the Old Triangle, the Glackin Brothers and the Irish Brigade frequently pick notes on the small but booming stage against the bar's east wall. Gaelic tunes can be heard every Tuesday through Saturday, with a worthy $4 cover-charge on Friday and Saturday nights. On tap is the full line of Guinness, Harp and Bass, in addition to domestic ales and lagers.
 
>From the outside, the sparsely windowed bar appears empty and forgotten, a good place for a game of darts or a quiet beer, which it certainly is before the cloak of night. But once the sun has set on this weathered watering hole, the Irish come out to play. If your ear is foreign to the tune, the locals will surely carry you until you get it. 

The long bar curls around the center wall dividing the stage area from the smaller front room. One must always be mindful not to congest the path between the stage and the bar; open always for the multiple beverage runs made to musicians over the course of the night. 

Just like the Dubliner, the Rec attracts all ages, known among the St. Paul clan as a sort of local mecca for Irish gigs. Its trademark dirt bocce ball lanes in the basement bring a strong cosmopolitan feel to the place. 

"On some nights, we'll have a live Irish band playing, Italian bocce ball in the basement, and a guy selling tacos," says bar manager Cami Rice. It's a marriage of Irish tradition with American character, adding to the attraction that makes the Rec a one-of-a-kind place. 

The St. Patrick's Day line-up includes a healthy dose of the traditional with music from the Irish Brigade, who have played the Rec since 1983, and Spincil Hill. The two bands ring familiar sounds to regular bar patrons, and for new visitors, the experience will surely suspend any previous disillusions about the older generation's ability to have a good time.

O'Gara's Bar and Grill
164 Snelling Ave. N.
St. Paul, Minn. 55104
651-644-3333
www.ogaras.com

Filling the final point in this Celtic triangle is O'Gara's Bar and Grill on the corner of Snelling and Selby avenues in St. Paul. This 15,000 square foot mammoth hall speaks for itself, and certainly does not speak-easy. With five bars stocked full of trademark Irish ales, stouts and lagers. Since it also features its own line of craft brews, complaining of an empty pint is a gasp rarely heard in this old brick mainstay. 

Live Irish music can be caught every Sunday night in the front bar and crowd participation is welcomed at this weekly open jam session. Popular local, regional and national acts are booked in the Garage, formerly an auto-repair shop, which extends from the rear of the bar. The space caters comfortably to both the large and thirsty crowd. 

O'Gara's has been serving the St. Paul faithful since March of 1941 when James O'Gara, grandfather of current owner Danny O'Gara, opened for business. By 1982, the family owned the building and the property, with the Garage opening in 1985 to bring the bar to its present-day size. The history of the apartment above the front bar is equally as rich, standing as the surviving childhood home of Peanut''s cartoonist and creator Charles Schulz.

"He even came in once a few years ago when I was bartending," says O'Gara. "But I didn't know it was him until he asked to see one of the apartments above and I noticed he had about 10 or 15 people with him."

History will continue to be written on the very walls of this famous pub,with St. Patrick's Day will be no exception. As the Irish often do, the single day celebration has been extended over an entire weekend. It all commences in the Garage with the music and antics of crowd-favorite Pat McCurdy on Friday, March 14, followed by Dazy Head Mazy on Saturday, Tim Mahoney on Sunday, and G.B. Leighton on Monday. 

The parking lot will feature a tent to account for stray regulars and novices alike, and the front bar will feature live traditional Irish music with Lehto and Wright and others to be announced. Check the website for show times.

Leave your shillelagh at home because there is craic enough for everyone.  On St. Patrick's Day, even the English are Irish. 
 
 

 

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